I have flushed my keyboard and mouse, and rescued mobile phones, water-splashed notebooks, damp/dirty TV sets and other large and small appliances.
If the method of operation is right, it is absolutely no problem.
But we must pay attention to the proper operation method. You see that I’m done with your own eyes. It doesn’t mean that you’re done with it.
The first point is not to bubble. Flush can, must not bubble.
Because even if it’s pure water, everything on the motherboard can’t be “pure” by dissolving it.
But if washed with water, even tap water containing hypochlorite, it will not have a visible impact on the motherboard. That concentration is still one hundred and eighty thousand miles away from the visible chemical reaction.
Circuit boards are all copper-clad; copper is very stable and it’s no problem to soak in water for a while.
However, the premise is that you have to cut off the electricity as quickly as possible (if you accidentally enter the water).
Under the electrolysis of batteries, circuit boards do corrode at a visible rate.
Therefore, it must be noted that the power supply, the batteries on the motherboard and the data protection batteries soldered on some boards must all be carried out at the fastest possible speed – but the next batteries soldered on the multi-layer circuit board must be done quickly… I think with most people’s hands-on ability, 90% of them are cold.
When the power is completely cut off, things like screwdrivers are short-circuited one by one for the electrolytic capacitors on the circuit board (it is better to use resistors to connect between capacitor pins if conditions permit) – they can be equivalent to a battery.
If it’s not for rescue, then you can turn off the motherboard first, remove the battery, and put it in place for a period of time (normally less than a minute is enough for the capacitor discharge on the board, but occasionally there will be a power cut for a few minutes can still spark), to ensure that the capacitor discharge completely.
Oh, by the way, in each of the above steps, you have to be careful that you may have static electricity on your hands. An inadvertent, finger and a chip directly click out a spark…
OK, it’s easy. Buy another one.
When the motherboard is completely powered off (pay attention to the batteries and capacitors above, power off), wash in the running water, you can use a soft brush to remove the dirt that can not be washed away. Be careful not to break the fragile components on it.
This is a good time. At least you don’t have to be afraid of static electricity.
After washing, use a hair dryer (low temperature, remote) or incandescent lamp to dry immediately. Sunshine at noon in summer can be used. But < strong > must not be dried First < strong > cracks do not dry at all ; Second < strong > wet for a long time will be placed as a “bubble” with the dissolution of the material on the motherboard, it is easy to form the original battery at the junction of different metals < strong > causing < strong > rapid corrosion .
Be careful not to touch the motherboard components at this time, easy to electrostatic breakdown. Of course, if you always wear the anti-static belt correctly and the hair dryer is grounded reliably, when I didn’t say.
Be careful to completely dry. Both sides should be blown; no water stains can be left. To make it uniformly heated, any handcuffs should reach the temperature of “slightly hot hands” and keep for tens of minutes, so as to ensure “thorough drying”.
Then it’s easy, load it back and turn it on – I washed myself a lot and helped others fix the machine that feeds water. It’s no problem at all.
Of course, it is not recommended for those who have poor hands-on ability and lack of understanding of circuits and electrochemistry to do so.
Every component I see knows what it is, what its internal structure is, dare not touch it, whether it can be immersed, whether it has to be removed and cleaned; you may not know.
In some places, such as the silicone under the radiator/radiator, the heat pad in some places, etc., washed may have to be replaced. This often DIY of course knows, but you may not understand.
In some places, the installation must pay attention to the uniform application of force, some have to use ingenious force, can not be hard. It is often known that the fastening screw can not catch one screw to the end, but must be tightened several times per screw, the overall synchronization, otherwise it is easy to screw out the gap; the first hand is easy to twist warp or even crack, the shell is always cracked.
Now the board is still simple, fully integrated components; in the era of discrete components, when there is no instrument, many places are completely “metaphysical”, such as the coil position and core position are adjusted, often wax seal or paint mark the original position. All sorts of problems arise when these things touch a little, or when they are heated, they deform a little.
However, although most of the integrated circuits have been used now, there are probably similar devices with internal structure in some special purpose boards. It’s easy to roll over if you don’t know how to handle it.
Details like these determine what others seem to do easily, but you always make mistakes or even break the board.