边商不是某个个人，是一个群体，他们不远万里跑到边境上做生意，各种你想不到的犄角旮旯地方。 It is not the big foreign trade business, but some chicken fragmentary, such as the miscellaneous, department store, restaurant small business, the object of service is the people on the border, the border people, the garrison, the government office workers.
< p > This is the commercial River and lake of Kuala Lung Town, the border port between China and Nepal. Of course, it is not comprehensive, and many shops are not shown on the map. The blue box was painted by the locals, and the red line was Bian Shang.
I go to Jilong town and like the old Lee’s ride. He runs a small supermarket in the town of Jilong, every two months for every half a month. I’ll take the train to Shigatse and wait for him. It’s almost time for me to get off the train when he gets to the wholesaler and pick me up and go back. I work in Jilong town and wait for him to go to Shigatse next time when he comes in. He comes in and I take the train back to Lhasa.
gave him 400 yuan a trip, almost enough money for him, and there was still someone to speak on the road. I also saved myself from driving too tired, one side is 820 kilometers, full of ghostly bad roads, but also serious speed limits, a person can not run really eat.
called his name “Lao Li” not because he was older than me, but the habit I formed when I was a soldier. All the soldiers were called “old X”. I called it when I was in the border guard, and now it was. Although Lao Li is a new generation in the border business, it is very typical, diligent, tough, cunning and vulgar. They filled the business gap in the border area, bringing modern society from the wholesalers to the frontier, and linking the people on the border to the whole of China.
Lao Li is not ugly, but on the contrary, it is fairly symmetrical, that is, the image of the whole person is called “rusty”.
if you don’t see him, you will feel that the original person can rust. He looked as if he had just been beaten by a group of steel pipes filled with red rust, the plateau red of the plateau identity card and no words, the wrinkles of the face were more rusty, the dirty places were unambiguous, and the dirty places had a very good backing effect. The whole man looks like a rust.
< p > The pickup truck was a bird, too. Every rusty place was rusty, and every place that should not be rusty was covered with mud. But the amazing thing is, the broken car actually doesn’t have any problems with the engine, brakes, chassis, and these guys don’t joke about these places.
P > We started at 2:30 p.m. and had nothing to say before the car passed Raz County. Lao Li drove by himself, and I took pictures of the fun things on the side of the road with my camera. 318 National Road Lazi county to sunset county this section of the road situation is not very good, the car is very good, the lens often hard hit the window glass, people can occasionally bump up the roof. I couldn’t help it. I tied myself to a chair with a seat belt. The ISO was the biggest, the shutter was small, and it was often blurred.
passed lazis, the altitude was obviously high, and no more water was seen between the earth and the earth. The whole river was frozen into a permeable glacier, reflecting the strong sunlight. The snow and ice on the ground together make the camera’s white balance mentally deranged and nothing can be taken.
there are several words on the edge of the glacier with stone guards, China border defense . I used to do this when I was a soldier. I didn’t know why my eyes were a bit sour and my nose was blocked. I don’t want Lao Li to see it. He leaned over his head and pressed against the window.
suppressed his tears for a while, and then turned around to see that I was thinking too much. Lao Li had begun to doze. This bastard, the seat belt is not tied up, driving with the steering wheel half asleep. These guys drive on the frontier, and I do it sometimes, waking up every time something happens.
in front of us, we had a half – hanging truck, and I was thinking about the time I was sleeping for a while. Suddenly, I saw a big truck coming over in a strange position. It suddenly turned to the left, had a strange sharp angle with the semitrailer, and then half a big inertia pushed the car back to the right and went out, the whole car. Then the buttocks go to the left and cross the whole road.
at first, I didn’t respond at all. What did the car want to do? Suddenly it came to think that it was pressed into the dark ice.
I quickly put a slap on my old Li. The guy suddenly woke up. The brakes were dead, the seat belt was tight, and it was on my shoulder. Lao Li hit the steering wheel and bounced back. The van screamed and stopped less than a meter from the semi-trailer.
dark ice is the most frightening thing on the Highland Road in the winter, where the sun can’t get in the corner. It looks like water, it’s actually slippery ice. Because of the angle of light, you can’t see the ice on the road in the distance. If you keep running on it, it’s ok if you don’t have a fast speed, but if you just step on the brakes or suddenly speed up, you will skid out.
Lao Li looked at the semi-trailer, and his nose blew out. I hastened to pass a handful of toilet paper from the glove box to him. He grabbed some of the bleed nostrils, put the rest back into the glove box, and put a big bag on his forehead.
“a tortoise son, a hammer drive!”
, “call your tortoise not to wear a seat belt, say less, and rush out.”
he was completely sleepy this time. He backed the car away from the semi-trailer and stopped the van to the outside of the roadbed. A moment later, if the car is pressed, the ice will not stop.
< p > I pulled out my phone to call the police. There was no signal. I tried to dial 110. The phone didn’t respond to anything but beeps. Lao Li tried it, and there was no way to do it. We got off the train and discussed with the semi trailer driver. He didn’t have a way. When the accelerator pedal to death, the wheel was just idling.
< p > As the sky darkened, Lao Li looked very anxious. He returned to the car and sat smoking one cigarette after another, swearing and scolding incessantly. I heard annoyance, said you panic hammer, panic can have a way. He said that the old woman in the family was waiting for him.
I said, you rake your ears. Rake ears, Sichuan dialect, fear the wife’s meaning.
waited for a long time before another truck passed, and there was a wire rope on it. I ran to borrow a wire rope, and the driver took a look at the steering wheel, “eight hundred”.
“eight hundred your mother’s P!” I don’t want to pull away with a wire rope. “See clearly, hide D, local car.” “Hey, do you still dare to grab it?” The truck driver also wanted to stick to his price. I said, “the dust on the border is enough for your house to repair the house, up to two hundred, and love wants a penny.” The semi-trailer driver came down and, for better or worse, the road was blocked and nobody could walk. The truck driver, seeing all the locals, defaulted to a price of 200.
is different from other places on the border. When things happen, help each other and blackmail will be beaten. If someone blackmail you, try to find a garrison or an armed police force. Borrow 200 wire ropes at a time, if the compensation price is 500, this also need not tangle, should give thanks or give.
old Li is afraid of his wife, too.
< p > When I got the car out that day, I didn’t let Lao Li drive until the road at Hero Valley was too dangerous for me to drive, so I gave it to Lao Li. Lao Li went to bed at the end of the day when he didn’t drive. The guy didn’t sleep at all last night. After he arrived in Shigatse, he slept in the driver’s cab in addition to loading time, so he could not afford to stay at a hotel.
what does Lao Li’s wife look like? I haven’t found the right word to describe it.
< p > It was the second day after crossing Mount Kontangram, passing through the town of Kuala Lung and plunging down the Kuala Lung Zangbo River into the Kuala Lung Valley. Night dew condensation in the half of the mountain, the hill in the gully is completely different from the Tibet plateau, the winter is a lush evergreen coniferous forest, the white cloud disk around the half of the mountain, the clouds occasionally show the truth of the snow mountain, I suddenly thought of a word depicting the appearance of Lao Li’s wife.
green hills like dai.
really surprised me when I saw his wife for the first time. His wife, Xiao Yun, was wearing a pure black woolen coat and sat on the back of the supermarket counter to bake an electric stove. Xiao Yun would say how amazing it looks is not enough, but the whole people are shrouded in a stream of water vapor, on the plateau seems particularly cherished. Her features were delicate, her face small, her eyes large, her fine eyebrows beautifully curved, and she looked as if she was worrying about something. The black hair gradually dimmed in the temples, slowly blended with the woolen coat, and the glare of his face and neck, like a halo of light, so that people did not dare to look straight and could not bear to see a few eyes.
this woman is not like the wife of Lao Li, the rusted man.
“this is dragon brother, called Dragon brother.”
“good dragon.” The sound of the sound of Jilong Zang bub. Big eyes lift up and look at me, calm and with light sadness.
“hello.” I didn’t dare to look at it. I glanced at it and moved my eyes away.
in private, I’m joking with Lao Li. You turtle son is very lucky. His wife is so beautiful.
Lao Li Hei hei’s smile, her eyes curved into a new moon, and the rust on her face was crowded.
later I learned that Xiao Yun had serious mental retardation. He had a fever and burned his brain when he was young. Xiao Yun and Lao Li are out of a village. The people of Mianyang, Sichuan, have grown up as a child. Lao Li has always taken care of Xiao Yun as a sister, and he married and has a child when he grows up. Children in the home, the older generation with, Xiao Yun refused to leave Lao Li, not a step away, Lao Li had to take her to this place to earn money.
Lao Li’s supermarket, named “selling long”.
I said, your fairy board, you are not afraid of Metro finding your turtle son.
he said that if Metro opened a chain store in Jilong Town, Lao Tzu sold the ass to support them.
actually, in the town of Jilong, in addition to “selling long”, and “Xin Bali”, “nibbling chicken”, “eight day Hotel”, you buy “Pepsi Cola”, “Kang Shi” in the supermarket, and do not be too surprised. The entire town is a Shanzhai flavor, the wholesale market is all 20 pieces of money in the clothes, 10 dollars and three pieces of lipstick, 5 yuan a cup of water, thick a layer of ash, customers come, the owner of the store owner to give you a towel wipe a towel. The Nepalese across the border is too poor to afford these things.
Lao Li’s supermarkets mainly serve local people, including Tibetans, border guards, armed police and government customs officers. He doesn’t sell Shanzhai products, nor does he sell cheap goods. He also delivers goods on his own. Whoever needs anything, calls him by phone. On the glass door of his supermarket, in addition to putting two words and telephone numbers on the supermarket with stickers, one of the most conspicuous words is
“a piece of money is also delivered”.
Lao Li’s business is the best in the whole town because he works hard. He knows all the local units and tenants, who is the name, where to live and what to do. Smoking brand of smoke, drinking and drinking brand of wine, how addicting to smoking, how much alcohol, soldiers and armed police at night will be hungry, he knows all special.
I used to be a soldier at another border crossing for hundreds of kilometers away. The shop owner near that shop was also called Lao Li. This old Li Feibi Lao Li, that Lao Li is a special fool and lazy. You stand guard. If you are hungry at night, tell him to send you a bubble noodle.
at that time, a young man named Lao Chen should be smarter and more competent. When I arrived at the sentry as the new platoon leader, Chen gathered around before I got off the bus. “The new platoon leader is here, is there something missing in our broken place just now?” No towel toothbrush wash tools? I need to make a phone call. I’ll send it to you right away. It’s all right for me to send parcels, express books, buy books, and withdraw money from banks. I can help you with the inconvenience of the platoon leader.
you still don’t say, just from the military school inside the big city, come to this bird not shit in the broken place, originally full of heart lost, there is such a personal shit to help you run errands, the heart suddenly warm a lot of.
my old post, the condition of catching up with Jilong town is too far and too far away. The border trade between China and Nepal is much better than the border between China and India. Nepal is almost as poor as India, and most of its people are barefooted and dressed like beggars, but Nepal has no border disputes with China. Kuala Lung looks thriving as many Nepalese go to China to earn money and buy cheap industrial goods they can afford.
the border line that I stayed in that year was not like this, the people are so poor that they want to go to the border and change some of the necessities of life with the Chinese people on the border. The soldiers of India, like the master, kick the people as the donkeys.
we took a rifle and saw that the common people were really pathetic. They all wanted to rush over a gun to swing the India soldier’s face. Those civilians were beaten by the soldiers in India. They also had injuries on their faces, and changed places to change things. It’s just some jade, musk, handicrafts and so on, for lighter, cigarettes, cheap clothes, shoes and toilet paper. They are also side merchants, and the India side merchants can get a good price in India.
Lao Li, including two old Li, and Lao Chen, they also do these things. They would run to the border to exchange crafts and local specialties with the Indians and Nepalese, and then sell them in shops. The border traders in India changed their jobs, turned around and ran to tribute to the India border guards. I saw them several times. The “commissioned officer” on the other side of India is actually the dirty work in the army. The official officer is not willing to do it. It is still a bit of power to find an old soldier to do it. The India chamber of commerce is careful to run away to give a gift. China’s 10 yuan, a package of “Ziyun”, is the best “tribute”, and India is holding hands with his hands. “Commissioned officers” are connected to the emperor to join the memorial, put his head, and India’s business has gone.
old Li, they won’t do that.
they are the master, we “cat and winter” needed cigarettes, all they provide, a unhappy, tell you “no goods”, you can only pick up other people’s cigarette butt in the winter. They will not pay tribute to you. If you dare to eat your card, you will be reported to you in minutes, enough for you to drink a large pot.
countries are different, and the side business is different. Lao Li has the most expensive resources that Indians do not have: equality and dignity.
we have our discipline. The border guards can not change things with the India merchants. “The three major disciplines and eight attention” is not good with India, and the contact is strictly prohibited unless we hit the past. Our officers and soldiers in India occasionally have little action. Our officers open one eye and close one eye, and the officers themselves dare not. They are reported not to play. Lao Li is such a man who is like a fish on the border, and the border is more familiar than me. He can be able to know the patrol route, the flight number and the position of the foreign soldiers, and can form a high degree of tacit agreement with the opposite side merchants. Strictly speaking, this is considered a smuggling act. The customs duty is not paid, but you can not manage it. If they did not import “prohibited substances”, such as drugs, guns or anything, they could not really catch them. Just a little bit of people, do all we can to catch these, do we have to go to the border?
I guess Lao Li can earn tens of thousands of dollars every year on this small “edge ball”.
Lao Li’s income is about 30 to 400 thousand a year.
he was very confession to me. He was the most profitable one in the whole town of Gilon, because I was going to borrow his supermarket to sell vegetables and give him a 40% profit. He really wanted to take it down, and tried to recommend his supermarket to me, and even showed me the real books.
everything is expensive in the town of Jilon. A bottle of mineral water, 5 yuan, a pail of instant noodles, 8 yuan, a pound of potatoes, 6 yuan, Chinese cabbage, 8 yuan. The capital of the People’s Republic of China is 3116 kilometers straight from here, “near” the nearest real Starbucks, 789 kilometers away in New Delhi.
but this money is hard money. Every time Lao Li goes out to deliver goods, runs to the border to make small moves, and goes to Shiga to buy goods, there are only small clouds with intellectual deficiencies in the store. Xiao Yun doesn’t know much about money, and it’s impossible to find out the price of goods. At this time, people take things themselves and put money in a box on the counter. Lao Li every time out of the door, next to open the welding shop of the old horse and the couple care Xiao Yun, the old horse is Qinghai people, Hui, also do local specialty purchase business, Lao Li made small movements of local products, arts and crafts are generally given to the old horse.
< p > By the time we got to town that day, we were four hours behind schedule, and we were stuck in a landslide in the Heroic Trench for a while. The old horse was worshipping in his shop, and Xiao Yun was shrinking behind the supermarket counter.
saw Lao Li entering the door, Xiao Yun rushed into the old Li Huai, crying, Lao Li, the sound of a stack of sound, to the side of the standing divorced single bitterness I fed a big mouth of dog food.
in the setting sun, Jilong town is beautiful. This is the paradise of the Qinghai Tibet Plateau, the birds in the woods are lazily singing, and the dusk conceals all the details between the earth and the earth, and presents the best side to your eyes.
after supper, I like to walk around the town by myself, thinking about things, thinking about myself and being homesick. There is a bridge above the Jilong Tibetan cloth in the town, and a huge walnut tree beside the bridge has a unique fragrance. I sat on the old bridge, and there was a layer of moss which had already been washed away on the bridge pole. It was very comfortable.
< p > Lao Li and Xiao Yun were also walking. Xiao Yun looked like a child, bowing his head cleverly and holding Lao Li’s hand tightly, as if this man were her day. Lao Li greeted me and asked me to help him shyly. Xiao Yun wants to eat the walnut. Let me help him down a few.
he lifted up his little cloud’s hand and said, “Xiao Yun won’t let go.”
I grin, ha ha ha, laugh, “you two dog food dealers.”
in strict sense, I am now a marginal businessman.
is a bizarre crowd.
they live in any seam like grass, dry, hot, cold, and thin air that can not kill them, and live tenaciously in every place where they may live;
< p > Like big trees, they take care of the frontier guards thousands of miles away from home and send nutrients to China, a thriving country, for the distant frontier;
they are like ants, carrying what they need,
, like fierce animals, they face all difficulties and hardships without fear.
they are pioneers, to all unattended places;
they are ordinary people, careful operators of their own lives.
despite their rust, they are shaping the country.
I have long wanted to write and write about this group, write their ordinary, ordinary, and write their legend, amazing. Welcome to my column: